A guide to "happy housetraining"
Preventing "accidents" instead of waiting for accidents to happen.
Introduction
This method of housetraining is focused on preventing “accidents” instead of waiting for accidents to
happen. The goal is to make it easy for the puppy to do the right thing in the first place. Training in this
way is faster and more effective than punishing the dog for mistakes. YOU play the most important
part in the success or failure of this method — you must be patient, determined and reliable for it to
work. If you already own an adult dog with housetraining problems, you can use this method to start
fresh just as you would with a puppy.
This method also requires the use of a dog crate or at least, a small, confined area for the pup to stay in
when he can't be supervised. A crate isn't cruel! It's your dog's own private room where he can rest and
stay safe, secure and out of trouble. Just like a small child, your puppy needs to be protected from
hurting himself and destroying your furniture. A crate will make the job so much easier!
The first few weeks of owning a puppy are some of the hardest and most important. Spending extra
time and effort now will pay off in a big way. Don't blame the puppy if you're lazy!
Before you start, here are some essential housetraining facts:
· Adult dogs can be housebroken in the same way as puppies.
· Puppies have limited bladder control.
· Dogs & puppies like to be clean and to sleep in a clean area.
· All dogs do best when kept to a routine schedule.
· Dogs have to go potty when...
· they wake up in the morning or after a nap
· within 1/2 hour after eating
· before they go to sleep
If a dog and especially a puppy is not allowed to relieve itself at those times, it will most likely have an
accident. Don't wait for the dog to “tell” you that it has to go out. Just assume that he does and put him
outside.
Housetraining baby puppies
Baby puppies, under three months of age, have limited bladder control and reflexes. They usually don't
know they're going to “go” until the moment they do! It's not realistic to expect them to tell you ahead
of time. If you're observant, you'll see that a puppy who's looking for a place to go potty will suddenly
circle about while sniffing the floor. The sniffing is instinct — he's looking for a place that's already
been used. If he can't find one, he'll start one! By preventing accidents in the house, you'll teach him
that the only appropriate bathroom is the one outside!
Ideally, you're reading this before you've brought your new puppy home. If you already have your
puppy, just pick up the schedule at an appropriate place.
Set up a dog crate or small, confined area (the smaller the better.) Using a dog crate will be more
effective. The size of the crate is important — if it's too large, the puppy will have room to use one end
as a bathroom. If you've bought a crate for him to “grow into,” you can also get dividers to reduce the
inner space while he's small. If he must be left alone while you're at work, then a larger crate is okay.
Put a stack of newspapers at one end for him to use when you can't be home to let him out.
Also in the crate should be a water dish (you can get one that attaches to the side of the crate and is
harder to spill), sleeping pad and toys. Put the crate where he isn't shut away from the family. If you're
using a confined area instead, a baby gate across the doorway is preferable to closing the door and
isolating your puppy.
Your puppy might not like the crate at first. Don't give in to his complaining or tantrums! If you're sure
he isn't hungry or has to go potty, ignore his yowling. If he gets really obnoxious, reach inside the crate,
give him a little shake by the scruff of his neck and say NO in a deep, stern voice. Eventually he'll
settle down and sleep which is what crates are for! If you give a tempting treat every time you put the
dog in his crate, he'll soon look forward to going in.
The crate is intended to be his sleeping and feeding place and is where he should be when you can't
keep a close eye on him. If you give him the run of the house at this age, you can expect accidents!
Dogs instinctively keep their sleeping areas clean. If you've allowed him to go potty when he needs to,
he won't dirty his crate if he can help it. Once he's developed better control, he won't need the
newspapers unless you're going to be gone all day. Change the papers several times a day if they've
been soiled.
Puppy's first night home
Get off on the right foot at the beginning! Carry the puppy from your car to the yard. Set him on the
grass and let him stay there until he potties. When he does, tell him how wonderful he is! After bringing
the pup inside, you can play with him for an hour. Plan on taking the puppy outside every two hours (at
least) while he's awake. Don't wait for him to tell you that he has to go!
Feed the puppy his supper in his crate. Don't let him out for half an hour and when you do, carry him
outside to potty before you do anything else. Wait for him to have a bowel movement before bringing
him back in. Some pups get their jobs done quickly; others may take half an hour.
If he's being slow, then walk around the yard encouraging him to follow you. Walking tends to get
things moving, so to speak!
Always take the puppy outside first thing when you let him out of the crate and always CARRY the
puppy to the door!! This is important. Puppies seem to have a reflex peeing action that takes affect the
moment they step out of the crate onto your carpeting. If you let him walk to the door, he'll probably
have an accident before he gets there. Part of this training method is psychological — you want the
puppy to feel grass under his feet when he goes to the bathroom, not your carpeting!
After another short play period, take the pup outside before bedtime, then tuck him into his crate for
the night. If he cries during the night, he probably has to go out. Carry him outside to potty, and then
put him back in the crate with a minimum of cuddling. If you play with him, he might decide he doesn't
want to go back to sleep! Puppies usually sleep through the night within a few days.
Daytime schedule
Establish a regular schedule of potty trips and feedings. This helps you to control the times he has to go
out and prevent accidents in the house. First thing in the morning — before you have your coffee —
carry the puppy outside. He can then come in and play for an hour. Feed breakfast in the crate and
don't let him out again for a half hour. Then carry him back outside for potty. Puppies usually have a
bowel movement after each meal so give him time to accomplish it.
Now he can have another inside playtime for an hour or so. Don't give him free run of the house, use
baby gates or close doors to keep him out of rooms he shouldn't go in. (Puppies are notorious for
finding out of the way corners to have accidents in — keep him in an area where you can watch him). If
you give him too much freedom too soon, he'll probably make a mistake. After playtime, take him
outside again then tuck him into his crate for a nap.
For the first month or so, you'll be feeding three or four meals per day. Repeat the same procedure
throughout the day: potty outside first thing in the morning, one hour playtime, potty, meal in crate,
potty, playtime, potty, nap, potty, playtime, meal, etc. The playtimes can be lengthened as the puppy
gets older and is more reliable. Eventually the puppy will be letting you know when he needs to go out
but remember — if you ignore his request or don't move quickly he'll have an accident!
I know this sounds like a lot of work and it is! The results of this entire running' in and out will pay off
in a well-housebroken puppy and clean carpets. Keep in mind that some breeds are easier to
housetrain than others and how the puppy was raised before it came to you has an affect, too. Pet store
puppies that were allowed to use wire-bottom crates have less inclination to keep their crates clean.
Puppies that were raised in garages or other large areas where they could “go” wherever will also be a
little more difficult. Don't give up though - you can train them, it will just take a little longer.
A word about paper-training: It seems harmless, to leave papers about “just in case” and for us who
work all day, it's a necessity. However, paper-training your pup will make the overall job of
housetraining that much harder and take longer. By only allowing the pup to relieve itself outside,
you're teaching it that it's not acceptable to use the house. Using newspapers will override this training.
Also, be aware that many puppies get the notion that going potty NEAR the papers is as good as going
ON them! If you must use newspapers when you're gone, keep to the regular housetraining schedule
when you're at home. Get the puppy outside often enough and don't leave papers out “just in case.”
Keep your dog's yard picked up and free of old stools. Many dogs choose an area to use as a
bathroom. If left to become filthy, they'll refuse to use it and do their business in the house instead! If
your dog has to be tied up when he's outside, keeping the area clean is even more critical. If you could
only move about in a small area, you wouldn't want to lie next to the toilet, would you? Picking up stools
helps you keep tabs on your dog's health as well. Stools should be firm and fairly dry. Loose, sloppy
stools can be an indication of worms, health problems, stress or digestive upset.
Housetraining older dogs
You can use a modified puppy schedule to train an older dog who is not housetrained yet or one that's
having housetraining problems. Start from the beginning just like a puppy, use a crate and put them on
a schedule. An older dog can be expected to control itself for longer periods provided you take it
outside at critical times — first thing in the morning, after meals and last thing at night. Until they're
reliable, get them outside every three-to-four hours in between those times.
Adopted older dogs that have always had freedom may be unwilling to have a bowel movement when on
a leash. You can either walk them longer or keep them confined until they really got to go. Just like a
puppy, don't give them the run of the house and keep them in a crate or small area if you can't
supervise them. You can give them more freedom as they become more reliable.
What to do if the puppy has an accident
Remember, this method of housetraining is based on PREVENTING accidents. By faithfully taking the
dog out often enough, you'll get faster results than if you discipline the puppy after the accident has
already happened. If you puppy makes a mistake because you didn't get him out when you should have
— it's not his fault!
If you catch the pup in the act, stay calm. Holler NO while you scoop the puppy up immediately - don't
wait for him to stop piddling - and carry him outside to an area he's used before. As you set him on the
ground, tell him “THIS IS WHERE YOU GO PODDY!” and praise him as he finishes the job. Leave
him out a few more minutes to make sure he's done before bringing him back in.
This is a little trickier with an adult dog especially if he's new to you and you don't know how he'll react
to being grabbed and thrust outside. Holler NO and put a leash on to take him out and show him where
the bathroom is. Make a point of getting the dog out more often in the future!
ANY other corrections such as rubbing his nose in it, smacking with newspapers, yelling, beating or
slapping only confuse and scare the dog. If you come across an “old” accident, it really doesn't pay to
get too excited about it. Dogs aren't smart enough to connect a past act with your present anger and he
won't understand what you're so mad about. He'll act guilty but it's only because he knows you're mad
at him. He has no real idea why. Point the spot out to him and say “WHAT IS THIS?” but that should
be limit of your correction.
Keep in mind that health problems, changes in diet and emotional upsets (moving to a new home,
adding a new pet or family member, etc.) can cause temporary lapses in housetraining. Diabetes in
adult dogs and urinary tract infections in both puppies and adults can cause dogs to have to urinate
more often. Urinary infections in young female puppies are common. A symptom is frequent squatting
with little urine release. If you suspect a physical problem, please take your dog for an examination.
Sudden changes in dog food brands or overindulgence in treats or table scraps can cause diarrhea.
Dogs don't need much variety in their diets so you're not harming yours by staying to one brand of
food. If you make a change, do it gradually by mixing a little of the new food with the old, gradually
increasing the amount of new food every day. A sudden change of water can cause digestive upset, too.
If you're moving or traveling, take along a couple gallons of “home” water to mix with the new.
Distilled water from the grocery store can also be used.
Cleaning up accidents
If you've worked hard with this training method, you won't have many! Put your puppy (or adult dog)
away out of sight while you clean up a puddle. Dog mothers clean up after their babies but you don't
want your puppy to think that YOU do, too! Clean up on linoleum is self-explanatory. On carpeting, get
lots of paper towel and continue blotting with fresh paper until you've lifted as much liquid as possible.
There are several homemade and commercially available “odor killers” that are helpful. In a pinch,
plain white vinegar will work to help neutralize the odor and the ammonia in the urine. (Don't use a
cleaner with ammonia - it'll make it worse!) Sprinkle baking soda on the spot to soak up moisture and
to help neutralize odor, vacuum when dry. At the pet store, you can find a good selection of products
that may be more effective. A diarrhea stain on carpeting or upholstery can be lifted with a gentle
solution of lukewarm water, dishwashing soap and white vinegar.
Puppies are attracted to urine odors and their noses are much better than ours! Even when using a
commercial odor killer, a teeny residue will be left behind that our dogs can smell. Keep an eye on that
spot in the future! This remarkable scenting ability does have an advantage — if you must paper-train
your dog and he doesn't know what newspapers are for yet, “house-breaking pads” are available at
your pet store. They are treated with a mild attractive odor (too weak for us to smell), so your puppy
will gladly use them!
Advice for owners of male dogs
Your male puppy will begin to lift his leg between four and nine months of age, a sign of the activation
of his sexual drive and instinct to “mark” territory. This is a perfect age to neuter your dog and avoid
the unwanted behaviors that accompany sexual maturity — marking in inappropriate places, fighting
and aggression toward other male dogs. Intact (un-neutered) males will mark any upright object and
are especially hard on your shrubbery and trees. Some males will also mark inside the house,
particularly if another dog comes to visit or if you're visiting in someone else's home. If you use your
male for breeding, you can expect this behavior to get worse. Neutering your dog will protect his
health, help him to live longer and be a better pet along with improving his house manners!
Vicki wrote this article for the Chow Chow Club, Inc. Welfare Committee. For further information,
contact the Committee at 9828 E. Co. A, Janesville, WI 53546 Vicki
DeGruy
Dog Owner's Guide: Housetraining
www.canismajor.com/dog/hsetrain.html
is a part of the Dog Owner's Guide internet website and is copyright 2003
by Canis Major Publications.
Used by Permission.
Preventing "accidents" instead of waiting for accidents to happen.
Introduction
This method of housetraining is focused on preventing “accidents” instead of waiting for accidents to
happen. The goal is to make it easy for the puppy to do the right thing in the first place. Training in this
way is faster and more effective than punishing the dog for mistakes. YOU play the most important
part in the success or failure of this method — you must be patient, determined and reliable for it to
work. If you already own an adult dog with housetraining problems, you can use this method to start
fresh just as you would with a puppy.
This method also requires the use of a dog crate or at least, a small, confined area for the pup to stay in
when he can't be supervised. A crate isn't cruel! It's your dog's own private room where he can rest and
stay safe, secure and out of trouble. Just like a small child, your puppy needs to be protected from
hurting himself and destroying your furniture. A crate will make the job so much easier!
The first few weeks of owning a puppy are some of the hardest and most important. Spending extra
time and effort now will pay off in a big way. Don't blame the puppy if you're lazy!
Before you start, here are some essential housetraining facts:
· Adult dogs can be housebroken in the same way as puppies.
· Puppies have limited bladder control.
· Dogs & puppies like to be clean and to sleep in a clean area.
· All dogs do best when kept to a routine schedule.
· Dogs have to go potty when...
· they wake up in the morning or after a nap
· within 1/2 hour after eating
· before they go to sleep
If a dog and especially a puppy is not allowed to relieve itself at those times, it will most likely have an
accident. Don't wait for the dog to “tell” you that it has to go out. Just assume that he does and put him
outside.
Housetraining baby puppies
Baby puppies, under three months of age, have limited bladder control and reflexes. They usually don't
know they're going to “go” until the moment they do! It's not realistic to expect them to tell you ahead
of time. If you're observant, you'll see that a puppy who's looking for a place to go potty will suddenly
circle about while sniffing the floor. The sniffing is instinct — he's looking for a place that's already
been used. If he can't find one, he'll start one! By preventing accidents in the house, you'll teach him
that the only appropriate bathroom is the one outside!
Ideally, you're reading this before you've brought your new puppy home. If you already have your
puppy, just pick up the schedule at an appropriate place.
Set up a dog crate or small, confined area (the smaller the better.) Using a dog crate will be more
effective. The size of the crate is important — if it's too large, the puppy will have room to use one end
as a bathroom. If you've bought a crate for him to “grow into,” you can also get dividers to reduce the
inner space while he's small. If he must be left alone while you're at work, then a larger crate is okay.
Put a stack of newspapers at one end for him to use when you can't be home to let him out.
Also in the crate should be a water dish (you can get one that attaches to the side of the crate and is
harder to spill), sleeping pad and toys. Put the crate where he isn't shut away from the family. If you're
using a confined area instead, a baby gate across the doorway is preferable to closing the door and
isolating your puppy.
Your puppy might not like the crate at first. Don't give in to his complaining or tantrums! If you're sure
he isn't hungry or has to go potty, ignore his yowling. If he gets really obnoxious, reach inside the crate,
give him a little shake by the scruff of his neck and say NO in a deep, stern voice. Eventually he'll
settle down and sleep which is what crates are for! If you give a tempting treat every time you put the
dog in his crate, he'll soon look forward to going in.
The crate is intended to be his sleeping and feeding place and is where he should be when you can't
keep a close eye on him. If you give him the run of the house at this age, you can expect accidents!
Dogs instinctively keep their sleeping areas clean. If you've allowed him to go potty when he needs to,
he won't dirty his crate if he can help it. Once he's developed better control, he won't need the
newspapers unless you're going to be gone all day. Change the papers several times a day if they've
been soiled.
Puppy's first night home
Get off on the right foot at the beginning! Carry the puppy from your car to the yard. Set him on the
grass and let him stay there until he potties. When he does, tell him how wonderful he is! After bringing
the pup inside, you can play with him for an hour. Plan on taking the puppy outside every two hours (at
least) while he's awake. Don't wait for him to tell you that he has to go!
Feed the puppy his supper in his crate. Don't let him out for half an hour and when you do, carry him
outside to potty before you do anything else. Wait for him to have a bowel movement before bringing
him back in. Some pups get their jobs done quickly; others may take half an hour.
If he's being slow, then walk around the yard encouraging him to follow you. Walking tends to get
things moving, so to speak!
Always take the puppy outside first thing when you let him out of the crate and always CARRY the
puppy to the door!! This is important. Puppies seem to have a reflex peeing action that takes affect the
moment they step out of the crate onto your carpeting. If you let him walk to the door, he'll probably
have an accident before he gets there. Part of this training method is psychological — you want the
puppy to feel grass under his feet when he goes to the bathroom, not your carpeting!
After another short play period, take the pup outside before bedtime, then tuck him into his crate for
the night. If he cries during the night, he probably has to go out. Carry him outside to potty, and then
put him back in the crate with a minimum of cuddling. If you play with him, he might decide he doesn't
want to go back to sleep! Puppies usually sleep through the night within a few days.
Daytime schedule
Establish a regular schedule of potty trips and feedings. This helps you to control the times he has to go
out and prevent accidents in the house. First thing in the morning — before you have your coffee —
carry the puppy outside. He can then come in and play for an hour. Feed breakfast in the crate and
don't let him out again for a half hour. Then carry him back outside for potty. Puppies usually have a
bowel movement after each meal so give him time to accomplish it.
Now he can have another inside playtime for an hour or so. Don't give him free run of the house, use
baby gates or close doors to keep him out of rooms he shouldn't go in. (Puppies are notorious for
finding out of the way corners to have accidents in — keep him in an area where you can watch him). If
you give him too much freedom too soon, he'll probably make a mistake. After playtime, take him
outside again then tuck him into his crate for a nap.
For the first month or so, you'll be feeding three or four meals per day. Repeat the same procedure
throughout the day: potty outside first thing in the morning, one hour playtime, potty, meal in crate,
potty, playtime, potty, nap, potty, playtime, meal, etc. The playtimes can be lengthened as the puppy
gets older and is more reliable. Eventually the puppy will be letting you know when he needs to go out
but remember — if you ignore his request or don't move quickly he'll have an accident!
I know this sounds like a lot of work and it is! The results of this entire running' in and out will pay off
in a well-housebroken puppy and clean carpets. Keep in mind that some breeds are easier to
housetrain than others and how the puppy was raised before it came to you has an affect, too. Pet store
puppies that were allowed to use wire-bottom crates have less inclination to keep their crates clean.
Puppies that were raised in garages or other large areas where they could “go” wherever will also be a
little more difficult. Don't give up though - you can train them, it will just take a little longer.
A word about paper-training: It seems harmless, to leave papers about “just in case” and for us who
work all day, it's a necessity. However, paper-training your pup will make the overall job of
housetraining that much harder and take longer. By only allowing the pup to relieve itself outside,
you're teaching it that it's not acceptable to use the house. Using newspapers will override this training.
Also, be aware that many puppies get the notion that going potty NEAR the papers is as good as going
ON them! If you must use newspapers when you're gone, keep to the regular housetraining schedule
when you're at home. Get the puppy outside often enough and don't leave papers out “just in case.”
Keep your dog's yard picked up and free of old stools. Many dogs choose an area to use as a
bathroom. If left to become filthy, they'll refuse to use it and do their business in the house instead! If
your dog has to be tied up when he's outside, keeping the area clean is even more critical. If you could
only move about in a small area, you wouldn't want to lie next to the toilet, would you? Picking up stools
helps you keep tabs on your dog's health as well. Stools should be firm and fairly dry. Loose, sloppy
stools can be an indication of worms, health problems, stress or digestive upset.
Housetraining older dogs
You can use a modified puppy schedule to train an older dog who is not housetrained yet or one that's
having housetraining problems. Start from the beginning just like a puppy, use a crate and put them on
a schedule. An older dog can be expected to control itself for longer periods provided you take it
outside at critical times — first thing in the morning, after meals and last thing at night. Until they're
reliable, get them outside every three-to-four hours in between those times.
Adopted older dogs that have always had freedom may be unwilling to have a bowel movement when on
a leash. You can either walk them longer or keep them confined until they really got to go. Just like a
puppy, don't give them the run of the house and keep them in a crate or small area if you can't
supervise them. You can give them more freedom as they become more reliable.
What to do if the puppy has an accident
Remember, this method of housetraining is based on PREVENTING accidents. By faithfully taking the
dog out often enough, you'll get faster results than if you discipline the puppy after the accident has
already happened. If you puppy makes a mistake because you didn't get him out when you should have
— it's not his fault!
If you catch the pup in the act, stay calm. Holler NO while you scoop the puppy up immediately - don't
wait for him to stop piddling - and carry him outside to an area he's used before. As you set him on the
ground, tell him “THIS IS WHERE YOU GO PODDY!” and praise him as he finishes the job. Leave
him out a few more minutes to make sure he's done before bringing him back in.
This is a little trickier with an adult dog especially if he's new to you and you don't know how he'll react
to being grabbed and thrust outside. Holler NO and put a leash on to take him out and show him where
the bathroom is. Make a point of getting the dog out more often in the future!
ANY other corrections such as rubbing his nose in it, smacking with newspapers, yelling, beating or
slapping only confuse and scare the dog. If you come across an “old” accident, it really doesn't pay to
get too excited about it. Dogs aren't smart enough to connect a past act with your present anger and he
won't understand what you're so mad about. He'll act guilty but it's only because he knows you're mad
at him. He has no real idea why. Point the spot out to him and say “WHAT IS THIS?” but that should
be limit of your correction.
Keep in mind that health problems, changes in diet and emotional upsets (moving to a new home,
adding a new pet or family member, etc.) can cause temporary lapses in housetraining. Diabetes in
adult dogs and urinary tract infections in both puppies and adults can cause dogs to have to urinate
more often. Urinary infections in young female puppies are common. A symptom is frequent squatting
with little urine release. If you suspect a physical problem, please take your dog for an examination.
Sudden changes in dog food brands or overindulgence in treats or table scraps can cause diarrhea.
Dogs don't need much variety in their diets so you're not harming yours by staying to one brand of
food. If you make a change, do it gradually by mixing a little of the new food with the old, gradually
increasing the amount of new food every day. A sudden change of water can cause digestive upset, too.
If you're moving or traveling, take along a couple gallons of “home” water to mix with the new.
Distilled water from the grocery store can also be used.
Cleaning up accidents
If you've worked hard with this training method, you won't have many! Put your puppy (or adult dog)
away out of sight while you clean up a puddle. Dog mothers clean up after their babies but you don't
want your puppy to think that YOU do, too! Clean up on linoleum is self-explanatory. On carpeting, get
lots of paper towel and continue blotting with fresh paper until you've lifted as much liquid as possible.
There are several homemade and commercially available “odor killers” that are helpful. In a pinch,
plain white vinegar will work to help neutralize the odor and the ammonia in the urine. (Don't use a
cleaner with ammonia - it'll make it worse!) Sprinkle baking soda on the spot to soak up moisture and
to help neutralize odor, vacuum when dry. At the pet store, you can find a good selection of products
that may be more effective. A diarrhea stain on carpeting or upholstery can be lifted with a gentle
solution of lukewarm water, dishwashing soap and white vinegar.
Puppies are attracted to urine odors and their noses are much better than ours! Even when using a
commercial odor killer, a teeny residue will be left behind that our dogs can smell. Keep an eye on that
spot in the future! This remarkable scenting ability does have an advantage — if you must paper-train
your dog and he doesn't know what newspapers are for yet, “house-breaking pads” are available at
your pet store. They are treated with a mild attractive odor (too weak for us to smell), so your puppy
will gladly use them!
Advice for owners of male dogs
Your male puppy will begin to lift his leg between four and nine months of age, a sign of the activation
of his sexual drive and instinct to “mark” territory. This is a perfect age to neuter your dog and avoid
the unwanted behaviors that accompany sexual maturity — marking in inappropriate places, fighting
and aggression toward other male dogs. Intact (un-neutered) males will mark any upright object and
are especially hard on your shrubbery and trees. Some males will also mark inside the house,
particularly if another dog comes to visit or if you're visiting in someone else's home. If you use your
male for breeding, you can expect this behavior to get worse. Neutering your dog will protect his
health, help him to live longer and be a better pet along with improving his house manners!
Vicki wrote this article for the Chow Chow Club, Inc. Welfare Committee. For further information,
contact the Committee at 9828 E. Co. A, Janesville, WI 53546 Vicki
DeGruy
Dog Owner's Guide: Housetraining
www.canismajor.com/dog/hsetrain.html
is a part of the Dog Owner's Guide internet website and is copyright 2003
by Canis Major Publications.
Used by Permission.
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Tips for Housetraining Puppies
Housetraining
As with most things in life, there are hard ways and there are easy ways to get things done. Rubbing a
puppy's nose in a mess is an inappropriate way to housetrain. Using ample amounts of supervision
and positive reinforcement is the easy way.
Starting Off On the Right Track
The first course of action in housetraining is to promote the desired behavior. You need to:
· Designate an appropriate elimination area outdoors
· Frequently guide your dog there to do his business
· Heartily praise him when he goes
By occasionally giving a food reward immediately after your dog finishes, you can encourage him to
eliminate in the desired area. The odor left from previous visits to that area will quickly mark it as the
place for the pup to do his business.
Timing Is Important!
A six- to eight-week old puppy should be taken outdoors every one to three hours. Older puppies
can generally wait longer between outings. Most puppies should be taken out:
· After waking in the morning
· After naps
· After meals
· After playing or training
· After being left alone
· Immediately before being put to bed
Eliminating On Command
To avoid spending a lot of time waiting for your puppy to get the job done, you may want to teach
him to eliminate on command. Each time he is in the act of eliminating, simply repeat a unique
command, such as "hurry up" or "potty", in an upbeat tone of voice. After a few weeks of training,
you will notice that when you say the command your puppy will begin pre-elimination sniffing, circling,
and then eliminate shortly after you give the command. Be sure to praise him for his accomplishments.
Feeding Schedules
Most puppies will eliminate within an hour after eating. Once you take control of your puppy's feeding
schedule, you will have some control over when he needs to eliminate.
· Schedule your puppy's dinner times so that you will be available to let him out after eating.
· Avoid giving your puppy a large meal just prior to confining him or he may have to eliminate
when you are not around to take him out. Schedule feeding two to three times daily on a consistent
schedule.
· Have food available for only 30 to 40 minutes, then remove it.
· The last feeding of the day should be completed several hours before he is confined for the
night. By controlling the feeding schedule, exercise sessions, confinement periods, and trips outdoors
to the elimination area, your puppy will quickly develop a reliable schedule for eliminating.
Expect Some Mistakes
Left on his own, the untrained puppy is very likely to make a mistake. Close supervision is a very
important part of training. Do not consider your puppy housetrained until he has gone at least four
consecutive weeks without eliminating in the house. For older dogs, this period should be even longer.
Until then:
· Your puppy should constantly be within eyesight
· Baby gates can be helpful to control movement throughout the house and to aid supervision
· Keep them in the crate when unsupervised.
When you are away from home, sleeping, or if you are just too busy to closely monitor your pet's
activities, confine him to a small, safe area in the home.
Nervous Wetting
If your puppy squats and urinates when he greets you, he may have a problem called submissive
urination. Dogs and puppies that urinate during greetings are very sensitive and should never be
scolded when they do this, since punishment inevitably makes the problem worse.
Most young puppies will grow out of this behavior if you are calm, quiet, and avoid reaching toward
the head during greetings. Another helpful approach is to calmly ask your dog to sit for a very tasty
treat each time someone greets him.
Direct Him Away from Problem Areas
Urine and fecal odor should be thoroughly removed to keep your dog from returning to areas of the
home where he made a mess.
· Be sure to use a good commercial product manufactured specifically to clean up doggy odors.
Follow the manufacturer's recommendations for usage.
· If a carpeted area has been soaked with urine, be sure to saturate it with the clean up product
and not merely spray the surface.
· Rooms in the home where your dog has had frequent mistakes should be closed off for several
months. He should only be allowed to enter when accompanied by a family member.
Don't Make Things Worse
It is a rare dog or puppy that can be housetrained without making an occasional mess, so you need to
be ready to handle the inevitable problems.
· Do not rely on harsh punishment to correct mistakes. This approach usually does not work, and
may actually delay training.
· An appropriate correction consists of simply providing a moderate, startling distraction. You
should only do this when you see your dog in the act of eliminating in the wrong place.
· A sharp noise, such as a loud "No" or a quick stomp on the floor, is all that is usually needed to
stop the behavior. Just do not be too loud or your pet may learn to avoid eliminating in front of you,
even outdoors.
Practice Patience
Do not continue to scold or correct your dog after he has stopped soiling. When he stops, quickly
take him outdoors so that he will finish in the appropriate area and be praised.
Never rub your dog's nose in a mess. There is absolutely no way this will help training, and may
actually make him afraid of you.
Success!
The basic principles of housetraining are pretty simple, but a fair amount of patience is required. The
most challenging part is always keeping an eye on your active dog or puppy. If you maintain control,
take your dog outdoors frequently, and consistently praise the desirable behavior, soon you should
have a house trained canine companion.
Housetraining
As with most things in life, there are hard ways and there are easy ways to get things done. Rubbing a
puppy's nose in a mess is an inappropriate way to housetrain. Using ample amounts of supervision
and positive reinforcement is the easy way.
Starting Off On the Right Track
The first course of action in housetraining is to promote the desired behavior. You need to:
· Designate an appropriate elimination area outdoors
· Frequently guide your dog there to do his business
· Heartily praise him when he goes
By occasionally giving a food reward immediately after your dog finishes, you can encourage him to
eliminate in the desired area. The odor left from previous visits to that area will quickly mark it as the
place for the pup to do his business.
Timing Is Important!
A six- to eight-week old puppy should be taken outdoors every one to three hours. Older puppies
can generally wait longer between outings. Most puppies should be taken out:
· After waking in the morning
· After naps
· After meals
· After playing or training
· After being left alone
· Immediately before being put to bed
Eliminating On Command
To avoid spending a lot of time waiting for your puppy to get the job done, you may want to teach
him to eliminate on command. Each time he is in the act of eliminating, simply repeat a unique
command, such as "hurry up" or "potty", in an upbeat tone of voice. After a few weeks of training,
you will notice that when you say the command your puppy will begin pre-elimination sniffing, circling,
and then eliminate shortly after you give the command. Be sure to praise him for his accomplishments.
Feeding Schedules
Most puppies will eliminate within an hour after eating. Once you take control of your puppy's feeding
schedule, you will have some control over when he needs to eliminate.
· Schedule your puppy's dinner times so that you will be available to let him out after eating.
· Avoid giving your puppy a large meal just prior to confining him or he may have to eliminate
when you are not around to take him out. Schedule feeding two to three times daily on a consistent
schedule.
· Have food available for only 30 to 40 minutes, then remove it.
· The last feeding of the day should be completed several hours before he is confined for the
night. By controlling the feeding schedule, exercise sessions, confinement periods, and trips outdoors
to the elimination area, your puppy will quickly develop a reliable schedule for eliminating.
Expect Some Mistakes
Left on his own, the untrained puppy is very likely to make a mistake. Close supervision is a very
important part of training. Do not consider your puppy housetrained until he has gone at least four
consecutive weeks without eliminating in the house. For older dogs, this period should be even longer.
Until then:
· Your puppy should constantly be within eyesight
· Baby gates can be helpful to control movement throughout the house and to aid supervision
· Keep them in the crate when unsupervised.
When you are away from home, sleeping, or if you are just too busy to closely monitor your pet's
activities, confine him to a small, safe area in the home.
Nervous Wetting
If your puppy squats and urinates when he greets you, he may have a problem called submissive
urination. Dogs and puppies that urinate during greetings are very sensitive and should never be
scolded when they do this, since punishment inevitably makes the problem worse.
Most young puppies will grow out of this behavior if you are calm, quiet, and avoid reaching toward
the head during greetings. Another helpful approach is to calmly ask your dog to sit for a very tasty
treat each time someone greets him.
Direct Him Away from Problem Areas
Urine and fecal odor should be thoroughly removed to keep your dog from returning to areas of the
home where he made a mess.
· Be sure to use a good commercial product manufactured specifically to clean up doggy odors.
Follow the manufacturer's recommendations for usage.
· If a carpeted area has been soaked with urine, be sure to saturate it with the clean up product
and not merely spray the surface.
· Rooms in the home where your dog has had frequent mistakes should be closed off for several
months. He should only be allowed to enter when accompanied by a family member.
Don't Make Things Worse
It is a rare dog or puppy that can be housetrained without making an occasional mess, so you need to
be ready to handle the inevitable problems.
· Do not rely on harsh punishment to correct mistakes. This approach usually does not work, and
may actually delay training.
· An appropriate correction consists of simply providing a moderate, startling distraction. You
should only do this when you see your dog in the act of eliminating in the wrong place.
· A sharp noise, such as a loud "No" or a quick stomp on the floor, is all that is usually needed to
stop the behavior. Just do not be too loud or your pet may learn to avoid eliminating in front of you,
even outdoors.
Practice Patience
Do not continue to scold or correct your dog after he has stopped soiling. When he stops, quickly
take him outdoors so that he will finish in the appropriate area and be praised.
Never rub your dog's nose in a mess. There is absolutely no way this will help training, and may
actually make him afraid of you.
Success!
The basic principles of housetraining are pretty simple, but a fair amount of patience is required. The
most challenging part is always keeping an eye on your active dog or puppy. If you maintain control,
take your dog outdoors frequently, and consistently praise the desirable behavior, soon you should
have a house trained canine companion.